Collar Stand Calculator
Calculate collar dimensions from neckline measurement and collar style for accurate pattern drafting.
About this calculator
A shirt collar is really two pattern pieces working together: the stand, which wraps the neck and buttons closed, and the fall (also called the collar leaf), which folds over the stand and is what's visible from the outside. This calculator derives both from your neck circumference measurement and chosen collar style. Band Length starts from the neck measurement and adds an overlap allowance for the button closure -- a narrower overlap for a Mandarin/band collar, which typically closes with a single button close to center front, and a wider overlap for styles with a folded fall -- plus seam allowance on both ends. Stand Height and Fall Cut Width are determined purely by the collar style you pick, since a Peter Pan collar's flat, rounded shape and a Spread collar's wide-angled points require fundamentally different proportions independent of how big the wearer's neck is.
Fall Length is shorter than Band Length, not longer: the band alone carries the button overlap that extends it past the neckline, while the fall's points terminate short of that extension, so Fall Length is the neck measurement plus seam allowances plus a small roll allowance for the fold where the fall wraps over the stand -- the extra fabric needed so the fall doesn't pull tight against the stand underneath. These are standard drafting proportions useful as a starting point, and one real simplification is worth naming: the stand here is modeled as a straight rectangle, while a well-drafted collar stand pattern actually has a curved rise (its top edge shorter than its neckline edge) that this calculator doesn't produce. A true custom fit still benefits from a test muslin before cutting your final fabric.
Inputs
Results
Band Length
18 in
≈ 5 credit cards
How to Use This Calculator
- Measure the neck circumference from your dress form or body measurement.
- Select the collar style — Standard, Mandarin/Band, Peter Pan, or Spread Collar.
- Enter your seam allowance width for the pattern.
- Review the collar pattern dimensions including band length, stand height, stand cut width, fall length, and fall cut width.
- Draft the collar pattern piece using the calculated measurements and mark grain line.
How the result changes with Neck Circumference
| Neck Circumference | Band Length |
|---|---|
| 10 | 12.5 in |
| 12 | 14.5 in |
| 23 | 25.5 in |
| 25 | 27.5 in |
What each input means
- Neck Circumference
- Measured neck circumference (or neckline measurement from pattern)
- Collar Style
- The style of collar to construct
- Seam Allowance
- Seam allowance width
How this is calculated
Worked example, using the default values
- Identify Input ParametersNeck Circumference = 15.5, Collar Style = 0, Seam Allowance = 0.625 = 3 input(s) provided
- Calculate Band LengthBand Length18 = 18
- Calculate Collar StyleCollar Style = style.nameStandard Collar = Standard Collar
- Calculate Stand HeightStand Height = style.height1.25 = 1.25
Engine last updated . Checked against 2 independently-derived tests — how we verify calculators. Built by Paul Gunder, a software engineer, not a licensed financial, medical, or legal professional.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why doesn't the Stand Cut Width change when I adjust the neck circumference?
Stand Cut Width is derived entirely from the selected Collar Style's fixed stand height (doubled, plus seam allowances) -- it has nothing to do with how large or small the wearer's neck is. Neck Circumference only affects measurements that scale around the neck, like Band Length and Fall Length, while the stand's height and width stay fixed for a given style regardless of the neck size you enter.
Why does a Mandarin collar use a smaller overlap than the other styles?
A Mandarin (or band) collar typically closes with a single button placed close to center front and has no folded-over fall to work around, so it needs less overlap allowance for the closure than styles like Standard, Peter Pan, or Spread, which this calculator gives a wider overlap to accommodate their fuller closures and folded construction.
What does the Fall Length measurement actually represent, and why is it shorter than the band?
Fall Length is the cut length of the outer collar piece that folds over and covers the stand once the collar is assembled. It's calculated as the neck circumference plus seam allowances plus a small roll allowance, NOT the Band Length -- the band includes the button-closure overlap that extends it past the neckline, while the fall's points terminate short of that extension. The roll allowance itself adds a little extra length so the fall can wrap around the fold at the top of the stand without pulling tight against it. (Collar styles with no fall, like Mandarin/band, report a Fall Length of 0 since there's no fall piece to cut.)
How should I choose a seam allowance width for a collar pattern?
Standard garment seam allowances typically run from about 1/4 inch (0.25 in) up to 5/8 inch (0.625 in) or more depending on your pattern drafting tradition and fabric -- narrower allowances suit lightweight, less fray-prone fabrics and reduce bulk in a small piece like a collar stand, while wider allowances give more room for fitting adjustments. This calculator applies whatever seam allowance you enter uniformly to every raw edge of the band and stand pieces.
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