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Hangboard Training Calculator

Plan your hangboard training progression with hang duration, rest intervals, and added weight progression. Calculate work-rest ratios and session volume for finger strength training.

Inputs

sec
lb
lb
lb
weeks

Results

Weekly Weight Increase

1.88 kg

≈ 17 sticks of butter

Training Hang Duration

11 sec

Work : Rest Ratio0.33
Rest Between Hangs33 sec
Total Session Time18 min
Total Hangs per Session18
Training Volume14,850 kg·s
Current Relative Strength7%
Target Relative Strength29%
How to Use This Calculator
  1. Enter your body weight in kg and the additional weight you will add (or subtract) with a harness weight belt.
  2. Select your current finger strength level and your training goal (strength, endurance, or max hang).
  3. Set the hang duration in seconds and number of sets you are targeting per session.
  4. Read the recommended Rest Between Hangs and Rest Between Sets to avoid overloading tendons.
  5. Follow the Weekly Weight Progression chart to add load gradually and reduce injury risk.
  6. Use Total Volume per Session to ensure your training load stays within safe limits for your experience level.

How the result changes with Target Added Weight

Target Added WeightWeekly Weight IncreaseTraining Hang Duration
100.63 kg11 sec
353.75 kg11 sec
657.5 kg11 sec
9010.63 kg11 sec

What each input means

Max Hang Time
Your maximum hang time on the target hold (e.g., 20mm edge) at body weight only. Test fresh after a warm-up.
Body Weight
Your body weight in kilograms. Used to calculate relative finger strength and training load.
Current Added Weight
Weight currently added via a harness or weight belt during hangs. Enter 0 if training at body weight only.
Target Added Weight
Your goal added weight for the training cycle. Typical progression is 1-2 kg per week for intermediate climbers.
Weeks to Progress
Number of weeks for your training cycle. 6-12 weeks is typical for a focused hangboard phase.

What each result means

Weekly Weight Increase
Amount of weight to add each week for linear progression to your target.
Work : Rest Ratio
Ratio of hang time to rest time within each set. Typical ratios are 0.15-0.35.
Training Hang Duration
Recommended hang duration per rep (70% of your max hang time).
Rest Between Hangs
Rest period between individual hangs within a set.
Total Session Time
Estimated total hangboard session duration including all sets and rest periods.
Total Hangs per Session
Total number of individual hangs across all sets (3 sets × 6 hangs).
Training Volume
Total training load: (body weight + added weight) × hang duration × total hangs.
Current Relative Strength
Current added weight as a percentage of body weight. Elite climbers hang 60-100%+ of body weight.
Target Relative Strength
Target added weight as a percentage of body weight.

How this is calculated

Worked example, using the default values

  1. Identify Input Parameters
    4 parameters
    Max Hang Time = 15, Body Weight = 70, Current Added Weight = 5, Target Added Weight = 20 = 5 input(s) provided
  2. Calculate Weekly Weight Increase
    Weekly Weight Increase
    1.88 = 1.88
  3. Calculate Training Hang Duration
    Training Hang Duration
    11 = 11
  4. Calculate Work : Rest Ratio
    Work : Rest Ratio
    0.33 = 0.33
  5. Calculate Rest Between Hangs
    Rest Between Hangs
    33 = 33

Engine last updated . Checked against 1 independently-derived test — how we verify calculators.

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