Landscape Lighting Transformer Calculator
Size a low-voltage landscape lighting transformer and calculate voltage drop, maximum cable run, and recommended wire gauge.
About this calculator
This calculator sizes a low-voltage landscape lighting transformer and checks whether your wire gauge and cable run will cause excessive voltage drop. Total Wattage is your Number of Fixtures times Watts per Fixture, and the recommended Transformer Size is the smallest standard size (150/300/600/900/1200W) that keeps your load at or below 80% of the transformer's rated capacity -- a 20% headroom margin that's standard low-voltage lighting design practice, since running a transformer at its ceiling continuously shortens its life and leaves no room to add fixtures later. Cable Run Length and Cable Gauge have no effect on Total Wattage or Transformer Size at all -- sizing the transformer only depends on how much total load you're powering, not on how far the wire runs or how thick it is.
Those two inputs instead drive Voltage Drop, which rises as you increase Cable Run Length (more wire resistance to push current through) or as you increase Number of Fixtures (more current draws more voltage across the same wire resistance). Max Run at 10% Drop tells you the longest cable run your current load and chosen gauge can support before crossing the commonly used 10% voltage-drop guideline, at which point fixtures near the end of the run visibly dim compared to those near the transformer. This calculator uses simplified per-1000-foot copper wire resistance values for common landscape lighting gauges; actual resistance varies slightly by manufacturer and wire temperature, and this tool doesn't account for connector losses or splice quality, both of which add real-world voltage drop beyond this estimate.
Inputs
Results
Transformer Size
150 W
≈ 15 LED bulbs
Voltage Drop
1.33 V
How to Use This Calculator
- Enter the Number of Fixtures and Watts per Fixture to total your wattage load.
- Enter the Cable Run Length from the transformer to your farthest fixture and select the Cable Gauge (AWG) you plan to run.
- Review the recommended Transformer Size — it's sized with roughly 20% headroom above your total wattage so the transformer isn't run at its ceiling.
- Check the Voltage Drop and Max Run at 10% Drop outputs to confirm your run length and gauge won't visibly dim the farthest fixtures.
- Use the Recommended Gauge output to size up to thicker wire if your run is long or the load is heavy.
What each input means
- Number of Fixtures
- Total number of landscape light fixtures on the circuit.
- Watts per Fixture
- Wattage of each fixture (LED typically 3-8W, halogen 20-50W).
- Cable Run Length
- Distance from transformer to the farthest fixture.
- Cable Gauge (AWG)
- Wire gauge: lower number = thicker wire = less voltage drop.
How this is calculated
Worked example, using the default values
- Identify Input Parameters4 parametersNumber of Fixtures = 10, Watts per Fixture = 5, Cable Run Length = 100, Cable Gauge (AWG) = 12 = 4 input(s) provided
- Calculate Transformer SizeTransformer Size150 = 150
- Calculate Voltage DropVoltage Drop1.33 = 1.33
- Calculate Total WattageTotal Wattage50 = 50
- Calculate Max Run at 10% DropMax Run at 10% Drop90.6 = 90.6
Engine last updated . Checked against 2 independently-derived tests — how we verify calculators. Built by Paul Gunder, a software engineer, not a licensed financial, medical, or legal professional.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why doesn't Cable Gauge affect the recommended Transformer Size?
Transformer Size is based purely on your total wattage load (Number of Fixtures times Watts per Fixture) plus a 20% headroom margin -- the transformer just needs to supply enough power, regardless of what gauge wire carries it. Cable Gauge instead affects Voltage Drop and Max Run Distance, since thicker wire (a lower gauge number) has less electrical resistance.
Why is the recommended Transformer Size larger than my exact total wattage?
The calculator sizes up to the smallest standard transformer that keeps your load at or below 80% of its rated capacity, a 20% headroom margin that's standard practice in low-voltage lighting design. Running a transformer continuously at its full rated capacity shortens its working life and leaves no room to add fixtures later without upgrading.
What does Max Run at 10% Drop actually tell me?
It's the longest cable run, at your current fixture load and chosen wire gauge, before voltage drop crosses the commonly used 10% guideline -- beyond that point, fixtures near the end of the run will visibly dim compared to those closer to the transformer, since less voltage reaches them after resistance losses along the wire.
Why does adding more fixtures reduce my Max Run Distance?
More fixtures mean more total current flowing through the cable, and voltage drop increases with current for a given wire resistance and length. So the same cable run that was fine for a smaller fixture count can cross the 10% voltage-drop threshold sooner once enough additional fixtures raise the total current draw.
What doesn't this calculator account for?
It uses simplified per-1000-foot resistance values for common landscape lighting wire gauges and doesn't account for connector or splice losses, wire temperature effects on resistance, or voltage drop from a multi-tap transformer feeding several separate cable runs -- all of which can add real-world voltage drop beyond this single-run estimate.
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